Etosha and Spitzkop

Friday- We've moved camp from Namutoni Waterhole to Okankuejo Waterhole. The drive took so long that everyone was going car crazy and by the time we made it to Okankuejo, no one wanted to go on the evening game drive. I was looking forward to seeing the Haunted Forest of Phantom Trees, but I couldn't make myself get back on the truck. We did see a rhino on the drive. We watched sunset at the waterhole and a family of elephants came trotting in and slurped up water. The tiniest calf played and bubbled in the water. Another calf did calisthenic leg lifts and stretches.










We ate dinner at the lodge and went back to the waterhole. It was lit by a floodlight, turning everything gold. Two rhinos came by and stood against the reflection of the night sky in the water.
Vicky was sick overnight and all day on the truck. She is the third to come down with this mean 24 hour bug.








We drove almost all day and now we're in this gorgeous desert place, Spitzkop. Huge pink granite domes and peaks are our setting tonight. After the usual arrival confusion, we had just enough time to hike half way up a dome and watch the sunset. We found a long, low stone arch and I climbed under it. Far below, two men searched for firewood in a donkey cart. We climbed down in the dark.

GOOD MORNING BOTSWANA!

Tuesday- After breaking camp in Maun we headed toward the Namibian border. in the late afternoon we arrived at our camp, put up tents and were greeted by the San (Bush people of the Kalahari). Ten San led us on a short bush walk which turned out to be one of my favorite highlights of the trip. They showed us all kinds of plants for family planning, headaches, menstrual pain and strength. They dug up a water tuber, grated it with a stick and washed hands and babies and drank from its pulp. They started a fire using two sticks. It was awesome! They are the cutest, most animated little people. We really enjoyed our visit with them. Our last night in Botswana was spent camping in the San village among grass huts under a billion stars.
Wednesday- We were awakened half an hour early by Acacia's guide with her signature morning call, "GOOD MORNING BOTSWANA! Wakey, wakey, wakey wakeeeeeeeeyyyy!" maddening!





It was a full day's drive to Windhoek, Namibia's capital. Namibia has great rest stops. We stopped at one for lunch and I wandered over to a little shop to order some biltong (beef jerky) the Namibian National Snack. I wasn't sure what to order (there were many exotic choices) so I told the lady I'd have what the person ahead of me had ordered. The shop keeper leaned across the counter and whispered, "That was the Prime Minister of Namibia who ordered ahead of you!" I can't say I approve of her taste in biltong though. It was kinda grainy.
We really like Namibia. The country has space, nice people, and a safe, comfortable atmosphere.








This morning we broke camp and drove all day to Etosha National Park. We had a game drive in the afternoon and saw all kinds of animals; tons of giraffes, and elephants, kory bustards, dikdiks, rare black-faces impalas, lesser and greater kudu, bush hawk and jackals that roam the campsites. I hope Jeff feels better soon. His stomach has been in knots since he drank the diesel at Audi Camp.